Liquid waxes can be applied directly after cleaning the ski. Hot waxes must be spread with an iron or rubbed on by hand and then ironed in evenly. The iron should not be too hot. The ideal temperature is usually indicated on the wax. Ski waxing instructions

No, that's a myth. The ski base has no pores. It behaves more like a flokati carpet in whose fibres the ski wax collects. Roman Böttcher described this in his dissertation.

We recommend biodegradable ski waxes. In the test, the wax from nZero proved to be the best, as the price-performance ratio is unbeatable.

It depends on the snow conditions and how many kilometres of slopes you ski in a day. Whenever you notice that the ski is no longer gliding so well, you should wax it.

• Only biodegradable ski waxes are sustainable and should be used

Yes, you can wax the ski as normal with an iron.

Yes, touring skis should also be waxed. The coating is the same as for normal skis. At the end of the season, the skis should be waxed and the wax should not be removed. This prevents the base from oxidising.

You should rub the ski dry after every day of skiing. You should re-oil the top of the ski once a year. It is best to go over the sides of the steel edges with the oil to protect them from rust. Hard wax oil (biodegradable) is suitable for this. We recommend Complex hard wax oil as it does not contain linseed oil.

The underside can also be oiled if required. However, the oil does not glide well on snow, so you will have to go over it with wax afterwards.

Any excess oil that is not absorbed into the wood should be removed with a cloth. Caution! Oil-soaked cloths containing linseed oil can be self-igniting. It is therefore best to lay them out to air or put them in a bucket of water. This does not happen with Complex products as they do not contain linseed oil and are therefore easier to handle.

Touring skis suffer more from stones and rocks in open terrain than alpine skis. This is why the base needs to be repaired more often.

A steel edge is usually only needed for icy crossings. This is why the steel edge of touring skis does not need to be sharpened as often as that of normal skis.

The wooden surface should be oiled regularly.

Initially, nothing will happen as the ski is oiled. However, it should not be permanently exposed to water.

For binding assembly, there is usually a drill bit with a smaller diameter for softer cores and a drill bit with a larger diameter for harder cores. Ash wood cores are hard, so the drill bit with the larger diameter should be used.

After drilling, seal the hole with a drop of biodegradable wood glue. These are e.g. Hansibond WB1100

You can either repair core shots or scratches on the wooden skis yourself, but a carpenter, wainwright, model maker or restorer can also do this. Fitting pieces or veneers can be glued in. These are then sanded flush with the rest of the ski surface. The surface is then oiled at least twice to protect the ski from moisture and then waxed as normal.

There are also hard waxes (comparable to repair candles) that can be dripped into the damaged areas with a lighter or soldering iron. Beeswax or ski wax is also suitable for this.

Alternatively, you can make a repair paste from wood dust and wood glue and spread it in the gaps.

Yes, if pieces of the covering are sticking out, you can cut them off with a cutter knife. Holes and scratches in the covering can be filled with repair material, repair candles. These are melted with an iron or lighter. For large holes, the ski service will punch out suitable filler pieces and glue them back in.

The wooden skis can be sanded by hand in the sports shop. Please do not wet-sand as this will damage the ski.

Skis are sanded with a belt sander. The ski service has special grinding rollers made of abrasive stones and resin. The skis are then structured and waxed.

As a rule (for 10 to 30 days of skiing), the ski is sharpened once per season. The edge is also sharpened more often. If the ski is heavily worn, e.g. due to contact with stones, it may also be necessary to sharpen it more often.

Yes, the steel edge can be replaced on our skis. If you need spare parts, you are welcome to contact us.

The skis have to be replaced every 8 to 10 years due to material wear. We estimate 30 days of skiing per season. If you ski fewer days or the edges and base are still good, the ski can last much longer, up to 25 years or more. At historic ski races, you can even experience centuries-old skis in action.

There is no age limit for skis. The material ages due to deflection during skiing, UV radiation and oxygen. You can see this, for example, when the base starts to turn grey. As long as the ski does not delaminate, i.e. the individual layers separate from each other and it still has pre-tension, the ski can still be skied. Some old skis are used for 25 years. At historic ski races, some of the skis are 100 years old and are still being skied.

A touring ski usually lasts a very long time, i.e. approx. 7-10 years. Due to the contact with stones and branches when skiing off-piste, it has a shorter lifespan than alpine skis. The lifespan also depends on how often the ski is used. It should be sharpened every 30 days of skiing, removing 0.1 mm from the base. The ski base is usually 1.2 mm thick and can be sharpened approx. 50 times.

If the ski skin gets stubborn on a tour, you can remove the snow with a plastic blade or an old credit card. Then rub the coat dry, warm it slightly and rub a piece of hard wax over it in the direction of the coat. Liquid wax is even better. The skin should be waxed again before the next ski tour.

It usually helps if you carefully remove the snow with the pole or the steel edge of the second ski. It is important not to work against the grain. It is even better to impregnate the skin regularly before the ski tour.

The ski boot is made of plastic, from which the plasticiser gradually evaporates, and the plastic also ages due to oxidation (contact with oxygen) or UV radiation. Depending on storage and frequency of use, the service life can vary between 3 years and 25 years. A worn ski boot sole also impairs safety, especially when touring.

Skins need to dry after ski touring. It is best to hang them up in a well-ventilated, warm place, max. 25° C, but not directly in the sun, as this causes the skins to age more quickly. Once the skins are dry, you can store them in a dark, dry place for the next use.